First Chew: Pastis Nashville | Bites

My colleague Margaret Littman wrote a wonderful characteristic final week concerning the buzz surrounding the opening of the brand new Nashville outpost of NYC-based Pastis. Print deadlines being what they’re, a lot of her story was reported prematurely of the opening. Moreover, the reservation system was apparently a bit wonky or they have been releasing tables in an uncommon means, as a result of the primary time I attempted to attain a reservation, there weren’t any accessible earlier than 8:30 p.m. for the remainder of July.

Once I informed my deliberate eating companions that my inner alarm clock doesn’t react nicely to eating (or staying out) that late anymore, they tried on their very own and located a superbly respectable 6:30 p.m. for mid-July. Possibly it was simply me.

I do know a number of individuals who have already dined at Pastis greater than 10 instances, together with a pal who’s on a mission to ensconce himself as a daily, the form of relationship the place reservation techniques are superfluous. I perceive his ardor, as a result of Pastis is that type of place — a correct third house the place it might at all times be a fantastic last-minute thought to simply sit on the bar and revel in a martini and a steak sandwich. Kinda like Mom’s Break for the higher 10 percenters.

So how was my expertise? On reflection, “expertise” seems to be an excellent phrase for a go to to Pastis, as a result of the vibe and being a part of the scene are as necessary because the meals. We visited on a bustling Bastille Day, and the place was unsurprisingly packed. Margaret recounted a narrative from an early Tuesday evening when the complete restaurant seemingly began singing alongside to an Elton John track enjoying via the sound system. I discover that stunning, as a result of regardless of a number of audio system unfold throughout the tin ceiling of each part of the restaurant, it was so boisterously loud that we performed a recreation at our desk making an attempt to guess what track was enjoying.

Shazam was of no assist, and the truth that we might barely make out the galloping bass line and thunderous kick drum of Led Zeppelin’s “Complete Lotta Love” till midway via the track ought to let you understand how raucous that room was. When you’ve got any plans to transform a toilet anytime quickly, I’d avoid white subway tiles, as a result of Pastis purchased all of them. They’re pretty and contribute to the Parisian metro station vibe of the restaurant, but it surely wouldn’t harm to observe somewhat ASL if you wish to have a dialog on a busy evening.

Sufficient old-man grousing from me! How was the food and drinks? I find it irresistible after I open a menu and sincerely want I might order each dish. Pastis is such a spot, particularly if you happen to’re a fan of bistro fare. I might positively see making a meal out of appetizers whereas seated on the bar, lingering over one in all their inventive cocktails with a half-dozen oysters, crispy artichokes that put any Bloomin’ Onion to disgrace, and an interesting tuna carpaccio that arrived on the desk in a single sheet of what might finest be described as a fish roll-up. When you gave in to the creativity in texture and presentation, it actually was a scrumptious and attention-grabbing dish.

Don’t skip checking the day by day specials, which rotate via basic worldwide dishes like rooster Kiev, Dover sole and duck à l’orange. The dorade doyale en papillote (sea bream cooked in parchment) was a pleasant and flavorful presentation of the flaky fish. You’ll by no means go flawed with frites at Pastis, particularly the steak dishes. The flank with maître d’hôtel butter, filet with a sauce au poivre and strip steak with a sauce béarnaise all have obtained raves from both my eating companions or individuals I’ve polled. Lobster and mussels are additionally accessible accompanied by these pretty shoestring fries. And don’t neglect to ask for the home aioli for dunking if they bring about you ketchup as a substitute.

Being the fundamental dude I’m, I ordered the steak sandwich, and I can say that it units the usual for any steak sandwich I’ll ever eat going ahead. Served on French bread with a gooey melange of caramelized onions and gruyere, it was greater than I might eat in a single sitting. So my finest dinner of the week additionally turned the very best lunch of my week the following day.

Service was, let’s say, strained by the fixed influx of friends filling tables and blocking service lanes. Waits between programs have been lengthy, and one flustered server virtually served a whole tray of another person’s burgers to our desk … we have been virtually hungry sufficient to simply accept them. As they add brunch and lunch, I don’t anticipate Pastis to get any much less busy. Happily, they’ve backfilled native workers with skilled assist from among the different places to assist set the usual.

So forewarned is forearmed: Pastis is an expertise. The explanation it feels so crowded and chaotic is as a result of so many individuals already find it irresistible. The meals, the ambiance, the noise, the crowds — they’re all a part of the trip that could be very a lot price taking! I’ll see you for the Early Hen Particular.